Bologna: The Italian City Not Many People Talk About (And now we wll be talking about it)

I'm going to be honest with you. Bologna wasn't even on our radar as a must-do when we started planning this trip. I had heard of it, but it wasn't on our list of places to visit in Italy. I had heard that is was the gastronomic capital of Italy, but I had no idea it was going to be the city that made us say wait, why doesn't everyone talk about this place?

We ended up here because we needed an easy way to get from Fez, Morocco to Italy because we had planned a walking tour with Macs Adventure in Tuscany.  We had a couple of non-stop options and Bologna we decided that Bologna would be the most convenient.  We also figured Bologna would give us a few days to rest, wash clothes, and get a little bit of work done.  Bologna allowed us to do all that, and so much more. 

Bologna is the kind of city that rewards wandering. It's compact, walkable, beautiful in that unpolished, lived-in way that the most tourist-heavy cities in Italy have honestly lost a little. There are porticos everywhere.  Those covered walkways that line almost every street mean you're almost never in direct sun or rain. The piazzas are full of actual Bolognese people going about their lives. And the food? We'll get to the food.

Here's everything I'd tell you to seek out and everything I'd tell you to just let find you because honestly, that's what we did. 

The Clock Tower (Torre dell'Orologio)

The famous towers of Bologna are the Due Torri, two medieval towers that have anchored the city's skyline for centuries. The one you used to be able to climb is currently closed for restoration. But here's the thing: the Torre dell'Orologio, the Clock Tower right on Piazza Maggiore, gave us some of the best views of the entire trip and I'd argue it's the better experience anyway.

You climb up through the Palazzo d'Accursio, Bologna's city hall since medieval times, past beautifully frescoed rooms and council chambers that feel like you've wandered somewhere you probably shouldn't be, in the best possible way. There are two viewpoints as you go up: one at the level of the giant clock face itself, and another at the very top, where you get a full 360-degree view of the city, the red rooftops, the hills in the distance, the Basilica of San Petronio below you. (This is where we spotted the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca on the hilltop in the distance and knew it was a must to visit). 

This is a 10 out of 10. Book a timed slot online in advance (tickets are €10 and include access to the Municipal Art Collections in the same building but your ticket for that is good for several days after so you don't have to go on the same day), wear comfortable shoes for the narrow stairs at the top, and go at late afternoon if you can,  the light is something else. You can also get the Bologna Card from the official website, which includes admission to several sights depending on how many you want to see.  We opted to do this a la carte because we honestly didn't want our visit to be too scheduled or planned. 

When we visited in late April, you had to go online to get a ticket, and the next time slot available was about an hour later. We went into the Basilica while we waited, then came back and were rewarded with golden-hour light after 5:20pm.  They only let so many people in because the staircase is narrow and, at one point, more like a ladder, so be aware that you'll need to be able to climb it both up and down. 

The Anatomical Theatre (Teatro Anatomico)

We almost missed this. Our host let us print some documents we needed at their office, and since we had one more full day, I asked her what she would add to what we had already done. She said this one, but looked it up, and we thought that it would already be closed by the time we got there.  The hours on Google didn't match the actual opening hours that day, and I genuinely thought we'd lost our window. But we got there, grabbed an online ticket on the spot, and it was definitely a must-see for me.  If you want to be guaranteed a ticket, buy in advance. This was mid-April, and so I was able to get one immediately for the next time slot. 

The Teatro Anatomico is housed in the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio — the original seat of the University of Bologna, considered the world's oldest university. The theatre itself was built in 1637 for anatomy demonstrations: a stunning carved cedar-wood room with tiered seating arranged in a circle around a marble dissection table at the center. The professor's chair is flanked by two carved skinless figures. The ceiling is decorated with Apollo surrounded by zodiac symbols. It is simultaneously beautiful and genuinely eerie in the best way possible.

The audio guide (accessed via QR code on your phone) is excellent and brings the whole thing to life. Book your timed entry slot online — it can sell out, especially on weekends — and allow yourself time to wander the rest of the building too. The walls are covered floor to ceiling with thousands of heraldic crests from students who attended over the centuries. The whole building is remarkable. Your ticket to the Teatro Anatomico gets you access to this room in the library and a peek into the rooms and rooms of books beyond. 

San Luca and the World's Longest Portico

Bologna is famous for its porticos. There are roughly 40 kilometers of them winding through the city, and a stretch of them was recently designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But the most extraordinary section is the one that climbs up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca on the hill above the city.

We're talking 666 arches. Almost four kilometers of covered walkway climbing steadily  and eventually steeply up the hill to the Baroque basilica at the top. The views looking back over the city as you climb are stunning. The basilica itself is free to enter and genuinely beautiful. The panoramic terrace at the top looks out over Bologna, the Apennines, and the Po Valley on a clear day.

Here's what we did: we took a taxi up to about the half way point (we had run another errand and needed a taxi to get back so thought why not go ahead and have it take us here) then we walked up the rest of the way and walked down, which I loved — the views coming down through the arches are spectacular.

Locals use this as an evening exercise spot.  Youi'll definitely get a good cardio workout although we had to do it more like a HIIT workout and take breaks. 

However, we could not get a taxi to pick us up via the app at the bottom once we got back and ended up taking the bus back, which was easy.  We found the bus and pickup location on Google Maps and you just tap your credit card or phone wallet when you get on.  While we waited to see if we could get a taxi we had some amazing gelato from a stand in the little park close by.  They had a dozen or more ways you could get an affagato and you could get the gelato in Foccocia too. 

Another recommendation for getting to the top from the city center (and back) is the San Luca Express  a little red-and-blue tourist train that departs from Piazza Maggiore every 40 minutes or so, comes with an audio guide, and drops you right at the basilica. Take it up, walk down, or do both directions on the train. This is also the smart choice if anyone in your group has mobility considerations. Just know it only runs until a certain time so if you want to experience golden hour light or sunset, you'll need to make your way back on your one. 

We had actually planned to do this the following day but since we had the taxi anyway. we decided to go ahead and go.  I read in the online reviews that even if the tickets look sold out online, try to buy one from the ticket sellers where you get on in the Piazza.  I also think it takes a break at lunchtime, like many places that close for a couple of hours in the afternoon, so take a look at their website and plan accordingly. Also know that just because it says it will be open, it might not be and even if it says it will be closed, it might not be.  That's just Italy. 

The Basilica di San Petronio and the Salaborsa Library

Both of these are free (the Basilica after a certain hour, the library always), both are right in the heart of the city, and both are worth stepping into even if you're not planning a dedicated visit.

San Petronio dominates Piazza Maggiore and is enormous — one of the largest Gothic churches in the world, and notably unfinished on the facade, which tells its own interesting story. Step inside even for ten minutes.

The Salaborsa Library next door is one of those only-in-Bologna surprises: a beautiful public library inside a stunning building, and if you go downstairs, you can see Roman ruins through the glass floors. It's free, it's cool, and nobody talks about it enough.

The Basilica di Santo Stefano (The Seven Churches)

This one is for the history lovers and the wanderers. The Santo Stefano complex is a cluster of interconnected churches dating back over a thousand years — seven in total, layered on top of each other and linked by courtyards, each with its own story. It's free, it's tucked into a beautiful piazza, and the atmosphere is genuinely unlike anything else in Italy. Old, layered, a little mysterious. If you have even thirty minutes and any interest in medieval history, go.

Before going inside, we stopped for snacks and drinks at Agricola e Vitale Osteria on Via Santo Stefano — a lovely spot, and a perfect way to fuel up before the climb. And when you come back down: Cremeria la Vecchia Stalla on Via Santo Stefano for gelato. I am not exaggerating when I say just wow. Do not skip it.

The Finestrella,  Bologna's Hidden Canal

Bologna has canals — most people don't know this, because they're largely covered over. But on Via Piella, there's a small wooden door in the wall. Open it. On the other side is a tiny window looking out over a hidden canal, and it is one of those absurdly charming, completely unexpected moments that makes you love a city. Across the street you can also see the canal in the open. Yes, it's a little touristy. Go anyway.

Eat and Drink: Where We Actually Went

Bologna is called La Grassa — "the fat one" — and it earns that nickname every single meal. There are Michelin star restaurants, cooking classes, and like most bigger cities, any kind of international cuisine you could want.  Since we had just arrived in Italy, we stuck to the Italian route (Scott loves Mortadella) but nothing fancy and we even went to the grocery store and ate most of our breakfasts and one dinner in our apartment.

Here's where we ate:

Trattoria del Rosso is where we ended up on the first night, based purely on how packed it was when we walked by. That is always the right instinct. Classic Bolognese trattoria, full of locals, great pasta.

Ragù on Via Goito — our host's personal recommendation for takeout, and it was exceptional. If you're staying somewhere with a kitchen or just want to eat well without the sit-down experience, this is your spot.

Bottega Ranocchi 1972 in the Quadrilatero market area — full table service, outdoor seating, right in the middle of the market streets. The Quadrilatero is the historic market district of Bologna and it's worth time on its own just to wander through the stalls.

051 Osteria Quadrilatero on Via degli Orefici — where we had aperitivo one evening. Great vibe, right in the heart of things.

Roxy Bar on Via Rizzoli — sandwiches outside for lunch one afternoon. Simple, delicious, perfectly located.

And if you're doing any self-catering at all, there are Conad City grocery stores scattered around the center, great for breakfast supplies, snacks, wine, whatever you need.

While we don't consider ourselves foodies, we do like to find good local places to eat. Since we are traveling for a while on this trip, we want to keep food costs reasonable, so we didn't really splurge on a meal in Bologna. With all the great food everywhere, we didn't feel the need to.  Everything we had was great.  We grocery shopped and made breakfasts and one dinner, and did a Bolognese takeout one night.  Our recent trick is to use a preferred AI (Chat or Claude, and now even Google Maps can help), enter where we are and what kind of food we are looking for, and see what it suggests.  We have had some real hits using this method on this trip, but be aware you do need to tell it which day it is, and then double-check opening times and if you'll need to make a reservation. 

A few logistic tips

Our host sent us instructions for when we landed that we could take the airport shuttle to the Marconi Express and then walk 10-15 minutes from the station but she said honestly for the price of a taxi for 2 people, that was the better option.  There was a taxi queue at the airport and it ended up being 22€ (I'm not sure if he took cards, we paid him in cash so plan to bring Euros with you or get some before you leave the airport, that's what we did). 

A few weeks earlier, I saw a horrifying reel about a purse-snatching ring in Bologna, and honestly, it left me a little shaken.  I know that pickpocketing and theft can happen in any major city, but at first I was a bit nervous about visiting Bologna and wondered if we had made the right choice.  I'm so happy that we're visiting this amazing city.  I wish I had saved the video to go back and see if I could figure out where this happened, but we never felt the least bit threatened about being in Bologna, even at night.  Locals were out and about enjoying the city day and night.  As in any city, you need to be careful not to put things in your back pockets or have your purse open, but we saw so many people walking around with phones in hand, and so many locals carry designer handbags.  So always keep your wits about you and be careful where you go, especially alone or at night, but don't be afraid to visit a place based on what you see online.  I can't imagine we would have skipped Bologna because of that video I saw. 

The Real Insider Tip for Bologna is Just Wander

We mean this sincerely. Bologna's historic center is compact enough that getting "lost" is not really a risk, and some of the best things we found, a beautiful courtyard, several upscale bottegas we ended up popping into for photos, and focaccia, the market, a street of books, and several churches happened because we turned down a street that looked interesting.

Don't over-plan this city. Show up, eat something, and let it take you where it wants to go. You'll be glad you did.

Have questions about Bologna, reach out to us and we are happy to help.