Scott and Melissa (00:00)
If you are planning a trip to Spain, Seville is one of those cities that's worth giving more than a day. We recently went back to Seville with our kids and grandkids and spent several days exploring the Royal Alcazar, Plaza de Espana, the historic bullfighting arena, flamenco, tapas, churros, and the streets around Seville Cathedral. We also learned a few things along the way, including what you need to book before you arrive.
We also learned a few things along the way, including what you need to book before you arrive, and why you probably don't want to drive into the historic center. Today we're talking about what we loved about Seville and what we do differently, and some things that will hopefully help you plan your own trip.
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We're Scott and Melissa, The Sunshine Travelers.
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Scott and Melissa (01:10)
somehow with all of the episodes that we've done from our three months of traveling, we missed recording on Seville. And this was actually our second time there. The first time was during a cruise. So we basically had only part of a day. And we planned this excursion pretty last minute the last time we came. So we only got a taste of Seville, but that was about it. We walked into part of the cathedral that's free.
But tickets to Royal Alcazar were already sold out last time. So we knew that that was a priority for us. But this time was completely different because we went back with our kids and grandkids and actually stayed in the city for a few days. We rented an apartment in the historic center of Seville, not too far from iconic Seville Cathedral. And from a location perspective,
That was a really good choice for us to settle in and use as a base to explore the city. And with the six of us, having an apartment gave us some space, but even more important, is that we could walk almost everywhere that we wanted to go. And I think that's one of the first things I'd tell somebody about Seville is to choose a location that makes it easy to walk to all the places that you want to visit.
Because the honest truth is if you have a car, parking is no joke. Right, Scott? it was not what the driving part is not hard. Let me just say that. Driving in Spain is easy if you're on the highways or interstates. it's when you get into the cities that becomes more tricky.
And so trying to drive downtown and park, and I think that's the key there, is parking isn't easy. We had a rental vehicle because Seville was one of the stops on a longer trip through Spain for us. And because we had the kids, the grandkids, for a couple of days, we had my parents, right? And everybody's luggage, we had rented a nine passenger van.
And it worked out really well when we were traveling between cities. We had enough room for everybody and all of the luggage. But the biggest challenge that we continuously found was everywhere we went trying to find some parking. And that van was too tall for a lot of the parking garages that we encountered. You'd find a garage, it looked perfect based on the location, but when you saw the sign of how tall
We would be too tall to go in there and we'd have to pivot and go somewhere else. So if you're taking a larger family to Europe and you're thinking about renting a van, I would just say that's something to consider or keep in mind is don't just ask it whether everybody in their luggage will fit, is try to figure out where you're gonna park it. So like how easy will it be for you to park? Will it fit into most parking garages?
Our host had given us a few options of places they would recommend to park. So Melissa checked out how far they were and if they could accommodate the height of the van. And when we got into Seville, we parked in the deck that we thought would be the closest to the apartment and walked from there with our luggage. It was probably only about half a mile or so, but at that time it felt a long way to drag those suitcases.
And then on checkout day, I decided I was gonna make things a little bit easier. And I went and got the van myself and I was gonna drive it as close as I could to the apartment and pick everybody in the luggage up. And that seemed like a
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Scott and Melissa (06:47)
really reasonable plan at the time. But I got into the van, I put the apartment into the map and started following the directions. And how that works.
Pretty soon I'm on these tiny one way streets. Then I'm in what feels more like an alley and maps apparently doesn't care that I'm driving a full size van. And I eventually got to a turn that I physically could not make. It was like a T at an alley. And there just wasn't enough room. and so I ended up having to back
the van all the way out is probably a good quarter of a mile or so that I had to reverse down this narrow alley with lots of turns in it and cars on the sides and trash cans and so needless to say, by the time that I finally got it figured out and could tell them a place where they could meet us.
And we got all the luggage loaded and got us moving again. I was totally done for. So I would make our transportation advice for Seville really simple. If you're staying in the historic center, park the car, research your parking ahead of time, especially if you have a large vehicle, and then just walk to where you're going downtown Seville.
It's very walkable anyway. And walking is just part of the experience. So make sure you bring comfortable shoes because you're going to put some miles on them. But I would definitely say if you're going to stay there for a few days, staying in the downtown area is the way to go for sure. that just let us experience Seville, what it was like in the morning, what it was like in the evening without having to drive to some, place outside, and then also not having to.
find place to park and and try to walk in every single time. So we could just leave the apartment, we could just walk around, stop in shops. we found a lot of different playgrounds, we could go get something to eat. and there were times where we ended up splitting up when it was time for the kids to go to bed. one of us could head back to the apartments and, could put the kids to bed as well. And so it just made it super easy to do that. There's a
ton of shopping in that downtown area too. So lots of people probably do come in. So there's local shops and there's a lot of the chain stores too. so we definitely spent plenty of time just wandering around without necessarily having somewhere that we had to be, which is another great thing about Seville.
For a family trip, I definitely think that the apartment was the right choice. I think this is what's got the third time that we've done that with them, where we've kind of shared an apartment. We could get a few groceries, we could have breakfast items on hand. So the kids could go and eat when they get up. They could have a few snacks. and then one night, I think, well, I think one night we ended up getting takeout with them. And I think one night they ended up getting takeout with the kids.
And then bringing it back. And it's just so much easier to do something like that if you have a table and glasses and plates and you can wash the dishes instead of just trying to like eat out of takeout containers and just be in a room. I think that this is often an overlooked option by a lot of people. and if you haven't traveled a lot, I think that you think, okay, we've just got to find this hotel, but it can be some really great options out there for looking for apartments, places like booking.com.
You don't have to just do, of course, you can look on Airbnb, VRBO. but a lot of times what we do is we will just put in how many people and let it show us all the options as well. And we've even had times where we've done that where it may be one night and it would book two at the same place. So like if we've we've had a couple of times when we've been with them, it's been like a transit situation.
where we just needed one night to stay. And so it gives you those options as well. so don't overlook that as an option. if that would be a good to have separate, different bedrooms, more bathrooms, kitchen, that type of situation. I do think, Scott, we ran across one hotel. And so I do think if it had just been the two of us and we wanted to stay in a luxury hotel in the heart of Seville.
I I would definitely look at the Hotel Alfonso the Thirteenth. This is in a super location. Scott and I actually walked in just at like the outside intrigued us and he had his camera with him to take some pictures. it's an absolutely beautiful historical building, now a hotel right in the heart of Seville.
And what I like about it is it totally fits the historical vibe of the hotel. And the location is fantastic. So you have the archways and courtyards and all the tile work. You get all the luxury hotel experience without losing that sense that you're in Andalusia. It's not like a new and modern hotel, but it does have the modern amenities as well. so as far as the location, you're close to the Alcazar, the Cathedral, the Plaza de España.
it was even closer to those things than where we were and close to the Maria Louisa park. So that's definitely a suggestion that we would have if you're like, okay, well, I don't really need an apartment. I want something super central. And I would like to say somewhere that's more of a luxury hotel. That would be the recommendation we would have for you.
Now, as far as what we did, one of my favorite places that we visited was the Royal Alcazar. We knew before we got to Seville this time that we wanted to do this. So we bought our tickets online ahead of time. this was something that we couldn't do the time before they were completely sold out because we planned that day trip last minute.
so we didn't end up doing this early enough to get tickets for the royal apartments, which is an extra ticket. By the time we had tried that part was already sold out. So if you want to see those, don't wait too long to do that. But even without the royal apartments, there was definitely plenty to see. The Alcazar has been built and changed over centuries, and you definitely see a mix of these architectural styles throughout the palace.
And so this is the architecture you'll see in lots of different sites in this area of Spain because parts of the site go back to when Seville was under the Muslim rule. And then later Spanish kings continued to build onto it and still use those royal apartments today, which is so interesting. so it is definitely the details. a lot of people I think are probably more familiar with the alhambra Granada, but this is very, very similar and
again a very popular location for people to visit. For me, it's the details. Like the tile work is incredible. Ceilings, like the these fireplaces, the floors, fountains, like everything. and then also the the wooden doors and the geometric patterns covering the walls and just literally everywhere. And like you just have to
be in these places and look at the ceilings and the floors and just everywhere because it's the courtyards and the arches, it's absolutely incredible.
And then you've got the Laud Giralda bite beside it. today it's the cathedral's bell tower, but much of the tower was originally built as a minaret for the mosque that stood on the site before the cathedral.
And inside the cathedral is also the tomb of Christopher Columbus.
It's often called the most traveled tomb in the world. The resting place of Christopher Columbus spans nearly 500 years of international relocation, scientific debate, political maneuvering, and
After dying in Validad, Spain in fifteen six, his remains crossed the Atlantic Ocean and changed locations multiple times across Spain, the Dominican Republic, and Cuba before finding a permanent home inside the cathedral. So the history here is also very, very interesting.
One of the historical attractions that Melissa and I wanted to see while in Seville was the Plaza de Toros de Sevilla, the bullfighting arena. Bullfighting is obviously very controversial and I don't think you need to be a supporter of it to find the tour that we did to be very interesting. I'm not sure why we didn't do the tour inside on our last visit. Do you remember? I think we just didn't have enough time.
Yeah, I remember walking around the outside of the of the arena, but I I don't remember why we didn't go in. So it must be that we we just didn't have time 'cause
We were doing it as that day trip excursion from the cruise ship. But the arena dates back to the seventeen hundreds. and if you go into the tour, you're not just gonna go in and look at the bull fighting arena. The tour takes you through some of the history first. They have old posters and paintings, a bunch of historical artifacts, and have these really elaborate.
costumes that were worn by the matadors. They're called
trajes de luces or suits of light. And when you see them up close, you realize they are so detailed and you get a sense of how much ceremony and pageantry actually surrounded the bullfighting. And then you eventually come out of the museum part and you get to see the arena itself. And that was one of the
places I really liked a lot. you've just spent time seeing all these artifacts and learning some of the history. And then you walk out and you're standing there looking across the sand arena floor and it puts everything that you saw into context. You could almost imagine this place full of people cheering and maybe jeering
to some level and the the matador there in this colorful bright costume and the bull and it just makes it really easy to envision. And so whether you would ever attend an actual bull fight is completely a different question. I would say it's pretty expensive these days, because we looked and we could have bought tickets for that evening. But I think back
those many hundreds of years ago, it probably wasn't so expensive. And the people would come there and and just enjoy this as a part of their culture. So I highly recommend doing the tour. It is self guided and so you can make it as short or as long as you want and that's totally up to you.
Yeah, totally agree. It was very, very interesting. And we actually enjoyed the exhibits. Even the kids enjoyed the exhibits, like Scott mentioned, the costumes, seeing the chapel where they would go in and pray before they went on the bullfight and all the different artwork and all kinds of different styles as well. And so we were there in early spring. So it was early April. And so that would be their bullfighting season that we could have attended. So you can check.
that kind of things online. They actually it was interesting because they actually had the box office open when we were going for the tickets for the museum and you could just go right there and buy tickets as well.
And so another place that you definitely want to visit, and we actually visited this last time, but it's kind of like the central, besides the cathedral, it's like the central iconic what people think of Sevilla, and that's the Plaza de España. I think that is another one of my favorite places and the kids and we all really enjoyed looking around and wandering around there. Do you remember that first time we went there and I convinced that lady that you were a professional photographer?
Yes. And she had you doing almost a full photo shoot around the place. And then she was like, I'll pay you, I'll pay you. And I was like, No, it's fine. Yeah. That was funny. so it's it's absolutely beautiful. And if you didn't know anything about it, you would probably assume that had been there like everything else for hundreds of years. But it was actually built in 1929 for the Ibero American Exhibition. It was kind of like a world's fair. there's this huge building.
That's in a semicircle. It wraps around the plaza. There's a fountain out front and there's a canal that follows the curve of the building,
And then there's also these arch bridges that you can cross over that cross that canal. but then there's all this beautiful tile work, and in the different tiled alcoves, they actually represent the different provinces of Spain. There's maps and different scenes showing some of the history and important things about each place.
so definitely give yourself some time to walk around that and notice that. What's interesting, Scott, is I don't think we noticed those little alcoves last time, but this was especially neat for the kids because they were looking for the place. they were staying in Estepona. so they were looking for that area.
Then they were gonna go to Valencia after that. They were gonna visit Barcelona and Madrid. And so kind of those places to point out for the kids and look at some of those things on there. there are also rowboats that you can rent and take out on the canal. This was something that we tentatively had on our list to do with the kids. We never got the chance. They only operate during certain hours. and so the timing never just
worked out for us. It was we got in line one afternoon and they were like, no, we've already taken everybody who we can take. So definitely check on that. I think the kids would have really enjoyed that. And a fun fact, if you are a Star Wars fan, you might recognize the Plaza de Espana. It was used in the movie Attack of the Clones as part of Feed on Naboo.
And right beside the plaza is Maria Luisa Park. And I would plan to do the two things together. The park gave us some shade, which we definitely needed because even though it was spring, the weather was starting to get a good bit warmer there in Spain. and then we also found a large playground where the kids could kind of run around and they loved this, right? They they just needed that time where they could
Just run around, be kids, interact with other kids. And so I would put that on your list if you're traveling with children. it was one of those places that they wanted to keep coming back to over and over again throughout our trip. it was a really nice break for everybody. We had been looking at all of the palaces and the historical buildings, and then they just got to go play for a while. and
I would just say that when you're traveling with kids, sometimes looking for and finding that playground is just exactly what everybody needs. And what, Scott, we found in Spain, that's one thing that you're gonna find in most places is parks and playgrounds. and so in a place like Spain that they're gonna be easy to find, even in the cities like this as well.
Scott and Melissa (21:05)
So another experience that we wanted to do while we were in Seville was go to a flamenco show. This was something else that we did not have time when we only had the day trip because most of them are in the evenings. And this is something that we thought the kids would really enjoy.
So we decided to book a show called Pura Essentia Flamenco My sister had actually recommended it as being great for kids. She took her son and our nephew within the last year or so. And it was at a small theater called Triana Casa Antica. And what we liked about it was that it was a really intimate, small setting. Scott, what would you say? There was probably thirty people, maybe thirty or forty people.
yeah, less than that. And so that means that you're close enough to the performers that you can really see their expressions and hear the dancers' shoes hitting the floor. then of course you have the guitar and the singing and all the emotion that goes into a flamenco show.
But even so we weren't exactly sure how the grandkids would react to that because I mean you're asking young kids to sit and watch something that's very unfamiliar to them. And then there's always a question about how long they're gonna last. But what was great about this was that it wasn't like too long. I mean, I think it was it was just it was the perfect amount. And so they were mesmerized. So we were really happy about that. They just sat there watching the dancers, listening to music, and really never seemed bored with it.
and so I think this was one of my favorite experience with them because honestly it's not something that's designed for children. it's a a traditional dance and and singing
in this area of Spain. And then they were able to experience something that was part of the culture in the place that we were visiting. And I think that's I mean, I think that's super important, right? Because like you've got all these landmarks and I mean yes, they were great and they enjoy those, but being able to pull in just another part of the culture besides, you know, food and these other places that you're visiting. And so this really captured their attention. And so it was a really a great recommendation. so if you
end up going. I mean I think it'd be great for any age. but especially with children as well. And if you know somebody else who's going, but I'll link it in the show notes as well so that you'll be able to find it. And I like that we chose a small theater. I think that being that close to the performers really makes a big difference. And you're not watching some giant production from twenty rows back. You can actually hear everything.
you can hear the sound of their feet stomping on the stage. You can hear them clapping. You can hear them singing. You can almost see the sweat coming off of their brow as they were dancing. And I loved that this is something that's probably one of the most distinctively Seville experiences that we had on this trip.
And so then the second thing I think that I knew that they would really enjoy, that I think that we would enjoy the experience too, is having churros with them. they had had them somewhere else near Malaga before we got there and absolutely loved them. So we went into a little churro cafe that the front door was literally right across the street from our front door of our apartment building.
And what was really cool is right there by the street, just to the inside, they could actually watch the man who was making them. and he was enjoying it. You could tell that he really liked them watching and he gave them a little taste of it. he showed them how they he made the the larger ones and then used a different nozzle to make the smaller ones. the place is called Donna Carmen, and it was definitely a local.
spot because in Seville you'll find a bunch of these. because they've gotten, super popular and you'll have all kinds of places where then they put sprinkles on them and and all kinds of things. But you could tell that this was the local spot. You could get them just plain. You could get them with the little chocolate cups. but I think the menu was even completely in Spanish, right? And we had to do some translating. Yeah, it was almost a I don't know how to explain it, but like a a cafe of some sort.
Where they served lots of different things, but they specialized with these churros. And if you wanted the chocolate, you ordered a hot chocolate with it, and you could dip the churro into that hot chocolate. it had a different taste though. Spanish churros are a little bit different from what we've had in other places.
Scott and Melissa (25:35)
So the taste and texture reminded us more of a funnel cake, I think. And we kept commenting that versus churros that we had had other places. I think the thing the kids are gonna remember the most though is
getting to stand there and watch him and interact with him, making them and getting to taste them just right out of the oil, I guess.
And so we also intentionally made our schedule so that we didn't, try to pack it to like go rush from place to place to place. and really the only thing that we had booked ahead of time was Royal Alcazar.
We actually had gone up to the bullfighting arena and just bought tickets and gone in and did that. And so you definitely want to give yourself time just to wander around downtown in this historic area.
There are shops everywhere in this historic center. So you're gonna have like the big chain shops. Like this is a place where local people will come to do their shopping and stuff as well. and so there's plenty to do even when you don't have something specific planned. I definitely like having some unscheduled time and then having a city where you can just, wander around and turn corners and go different ways. and there are so many streets here.
that are narrow. and then they may have only a few cars, only local cars. Like Scott was talking about getting stuck. You might have like a local car and you're like, how are they even fitting? But most of that is like closed to the general public as well. And then there's lots that are just pedestrian only. Another great place to wander is down by the river. So we did that. You can kind of go under the bridges. And then of course we mentioned that we did the flamenco show across the river.
But there's just neat places where you can stop again and have, a drink or have coffee and neat little places with tiled scenery maps, that kind of thing as well. And so this is definitely a place where I feel like you're gonna want to just work in some time. so give yourself plenty of time to just wander if you have a time ticket for.
Alcazar or anything else, just set out early or give yourself plenty of time to just wander back and and not feel rushed.
Melissa and I also managed to break away one evening and have a bit of a date night. So we walked down the Calle Mateos Gago, which is a street that I would definitely recommend finding while you're in Seville. In the evening, it's full of outdoor cafes and restaurants.
And as you walk along, you get these great views back to La Geralda. it's probably one of my most favorite evenings, not just because we were getting to have a date night, but we weren't necessarily sightseeing. we weren't trying to get everybody somewhere. We just went and found an outside table. We ordered some tapas, we had a glass of wine or an Aperol Spritz.
And we just sat there and did some people watching, which is one of my favorite things to do. And that part of Seville, we didn't get to experience on our first visit. A day trip, you can go and do the Alcazar, the Cathedral, or see Plaza de Espana, but it's really hard to get that evening experience where you don't have to be anywhere. You can just sit and relax, enjoy the tapas, and do that people watching.
There was a bar in this area that was like a standing room only bar. There was no seats. now this isn't super common for Spain. It was definitely a place for young people and they just literally congregated right, like where they would order drinks and just literally hang out. So that was also interesting to watch. it was just interesting to see that local culture of the younger people.
So I wanted to mention one other restaurant. There was a couple of other places that we went, but there's one other place that is definitely worth mentioning. and it's called Bar Pasta Guillo Tapas. I will put like the link to it in Google in the show notes in case I'm totally butchering that. and we actually ate here for lunch on the day that we arrived, but it's open till like midnight every night as well, or most nights. I won't say every night, but
open till midnight. So lunch and dinner. So I did want to give one other tip. and especially this worked really well for us in Spain. food is one of the things that we've been using AI to help us source since it's very easy to fact check it. So you can go in and you can put in, we're looking for this kind of food. This is where we are. You could even put in your price point, etc. Now I will say it has been not so good on the
this is we're here on this day and it'll give us places that aren't necessarily open that day. That's why we're always leery of using AI when planning a trip and trusting everything it says. But food is a is a great way to quickly check that. Okay, it gives us three or four places. Let's check these. Are they open? Do we need reservations? Are they close by? Is this in the price point we want? And this is one of the ones where this gave us a great recommendation.
We ended up, going for lunch and luckily getting a table. But this is a place what has a lot of authentic dishes from the area. Our waiter actually made some really great suggestions for us. it's definitely not inexpensive. So anytime you're ordering camon and local cheese and different things like that, it's it's not inexpensive, but it's one of those places.
That we still talk about, we're thinking about the food there. Like we would go back there in a heartbeat. some of the reviews I'd I'd look to just check like the name and a couple of things as we were preparing for this episode and looking at a couple of the reviews and they talk about the traditional Andalusian dishes, that it's authentic and lively. The oxtail. I don't did you have the oxtail? I don't remember if you had the oxtail.
but that was that was one of the things that they talked about, the honey goat cheese and just a lot of small things. And what's nice about it is it does give you the opportunity, as in the tapas style, to try a variety of things, to share a variety of things. So highly recommend that. Yeah, I think we had like a grilled meat platter or something like that that we shared. But I think I had gazpacho too. I'm sure you had gazpacho.
if someone asked me how much time they actually need in Seville, I'd say at least two full days. Three to four days would probably be even better. We had Friday afternoon and evening and all day Saturday and Sunday, and then we left early on Monday morning to continue our travels. And not because I think you need three days to cram in more attractions.
You're gonna need the time so that you don't have to cram everything in. Do the Alcazar one morning, spend some time around Plaza de Espana and Maria Luisa Park, tour the cathedral if that's important to you. I would definitely recommend that you do it and then see that Christopher Columbus tomb. Catch a flamenco show, walk around downtown.
Maybe do some shopping, sit outside at one of those restaurants and have tapas. And if it's hot that day, you could just take the afternoon off and not feel rushed to do everything. Make sure you're leaving some space in your itinerary. And I think that's what I liked about this visit more than the first one that we did. We still got to see a lot, but I didn't feel like we were always trying to see everything. And Scott, I
I think looking back and thinking about Sevilla now and recording this episode now, it just reminded me cities like this, I think we enjoy so much when you can just wander around and discover places and you don't have to always be looking for something in particular as well. and so but there's definitely things that we missed.
quote unquote missed, I guess. We didn't get to go into the royal apartments. I do think that what we saw in the Royal Acad was plenty for the kids. and unfortunately we didn't get to take the rowboats out on the Plaza de Espana. I think they really would have enjoyed that. It wasn't a must do, but I think they would have enjoyed that. But I still don't feel like we missed out because of that. I will say another thing. They don't have a lot of public transportation, but they do have a little tram.
that runs into a certain area. Funny enough, that was one of the things our grandson wanted to do. And the place where we ended up getting on, it went one stop and then that was like the end of the line. But that was that was fun. That was something he wanted to do. And so just having time to do some of those things.
I think that's probably the biggest difference between our two visits. the first time we got to see Seville, and this time we stayed there long enough to actually enjoy it. And it worked really well with the whole family. The grandkids had the Playground Churros, a flamenco show that we weren't even sure that they would sit through. We had the Alcazar, the Cathedral, the Plaza de Espana, and all of the history of
things like Plaza de Toros and Melissa and I still manage to have an evening sitting outside with tapas and drinks looking back towards La Gerada. So if you're planning a trip through Spain and wondering whether Seville deserves a place on that itinerary, well we would go back. So give yourself a couple of days, stay somewhere that lets you walk around the city, buy your Alcazar tickets ahead of time.
Make sure you're wearing comfortable shoes. And if you happen to be traveling in a full size minivan, park it. And I think that might be the most important advice in this entire episode.
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Speaker 2 (35:09)
and join us on Instagram or Facebook at Sunshine Travelers Podcast. Remember, that's Travelers with one L.
Speaker 1 (35:15)
And if the stories, tips, and adventures we share bring a little sunshine to your week, you can even buy us a cup of coffee now. You'll find the link in the show notes.
Speaker 2 (35:25)
And of course, share this episode with a friend. Adventure is always better together.
