Scott Barronton (00:00)
Welcome back to Sunshine Travelers. We spent a couple of days in Buenos Aires recently, and it's a city that feels a little bit different than what you might expect. It leans more European than Latin American, from the architecture to the cafe culture. But once you start exploring, you realize it has its own personality. In a short amount of time, we were able to experience quite a bit.
from local markets and great food to tango and some of the more historic parts of the city. So in this episode, we're going to walk you through how we spent our time, what stood out, and what we'd recommend if you're visiting Buenos Aires for a couple of days.
So this was actually my second time in Buenos Aires, but it had almost been about 15 years since I was last there. So most of it still felt pretty new to me. There was a few things like, I remember that. but overall I would say, it was kind of re remembering some of the things from the first trip. And the first thing that stood out again was just how European the city really feels.
And it's not really what you might expect going in if you haven't heard about this, but there's very, very wide streets. I think he said, is it like the widest avenue in the world at one location? Much
older buildings, cafes everywhere. It just has a different feel than most places in Latin America. And one thing that we noticed pretty quickly when we were planning this trip is that hotels there aren't very cheap, at least not compared to other places we've been to in Latin America. But then at the same time, other things felt actually very reasonable.
Yeah, I think because their economy has changed so much. So if you talk to people who went during a certain time period, you might hear something very different. So it's always a good idea, to check on like current prices and not saying that everything was like that.
So getting around was actually very easy. We looked at booking a private transfer for our whole group from the airport, but it was gonna be like two to $300 and we just didn't feel like that that was worth it. So instead we just decided to use Uber and split up. Those rides were about 30 to $40 each one way. So we, one person actually arrived early, so we just split up into a couple of cars that worked out fine.
One thing to know, there's no Uber XL, but they did have like Uber, what is it called? Like you could pick the one that would arrive the fastest as well. So. Well, yeah, priority, but then they had one that was for if you had luggage and it was like a little work truck looking thing. Oh. So I would just say is that the cars are a lot smaller.
when you're using Uber there. Matter of fact, we even joked that I needed to stop ordering Ubers because every time I ordered one, the car would get smaller and smaller and smaller. was like, we're going to be on a bicycle before we know it. And so if you have luggage, plan on having multiple cars, especially if you have a group.
So we stayed at the Intercontinental Buenos Aires and Atlas included one night on the front end of our trip to Antarctica. And so we decided as a group that we would add another night so that we could have a full day to explore before leaving for Ushuaia. And we reached out ahead of time to have them link the reservations. And that was really important because once we got there,
We were able to set it up to where we didn't have to switch rooms and that made a huge difference. That means no, packing up, no moving bags. was just easier for everybody. in the group.
And the location worked really well for what we needed. It was very centrally located and a short Uber ride to lots of places that we couldn't walk to. We could walk to a couple, lots of places that we couldn't walk to. And the Ubers kind of going back to the affordability, the Ubers though, once we were in Buenos Aires were actually really cheap. Like I was looking back, cause we would have to get two of them. I was looking back at some of the prices. It'd be like $4 with the tip.
$5 with the tip when it felt like we had gone like 10 or 12 minutes. So only to the airport, but I mean, honestly, from an airport Uber perspective into a town almost an hour, that's really not a bad price. So they also do have a subway system and a bus system. So I think those are very common for locals. I would have liked to have done that if we'd had more time. We just had a limited amount of time, lots of stuff that we wanted to do and
I don't know how much that cost. So it could have saved a little bit, but honestly, it just wasn't that expensive. And since this was a group trip, that's probably not the best thing to try to figure out. But they do have that available. So our first meal after getting to Buenos Aires was at Mercado de San Telmo And this was a market that I had looked up because
when I looked at the itinerary for where we're going to be going the next day, one of the places that I had thought about was on that itinerary. So I had to flip real quick and find somewhere else that we could go walk around this first day, after flying all night, grab a bite of lunch and get some just fresh air. And so we went into this place
And as soon as you step into it, you can smell the meat cooking on the paria or the grill. it just really is everywhere in the air in your senses, right? You could see it. You could see the meat being cooked on the grills. You could see the fire. it was just one of those places and there were so many options that Dennis and I, had just kind of wondered around for a bit. And then all of a sudden we realized.
We were by ourselves. No one else had come with us. Yeah, because I think the rest of us had already decided that we wanted to try to find some empanadas. People had some and then we had spotted some in one little place. And then we saw these guys sitting at a table with them. And so we were just kind of like peeking at them. And then we asked them specifically, where are those from? They were definitely locals and they were very quick to tell us that these were the best.
the stand, he said, go down here and turn right and you'll see it right there on your left. And sure enough, we did that. There was a long line. We were almost afraid that we were kind of going to this market almost a little bit late by the time we, got there and got checked in and got settled and all the things.
that we, this might be a little bit late for lunch. And there were places, I mean, they were still gonna be open, but for this particular spot, which this place was called El Hornero, just so you'll know if you wanna look that up, I can link the specific location in the show notes, but go to this place early. Like I said, they had the long line and they were starting to run out of some of the options because they're made fresh every single day. Actually, as we were staying in in line, we had seen people order that.
But then they were like, no more of this one, no more of that one. And that was what started happening to us. I was like, no. But it was so good, very inexpensive as well. I think that was probably our cheapest meal. So at that Mercado, there's also produce markets, antique shops, lots of other food options.
And like Scott mentioned, if you want the ones with the meat cooking on the grill, just like so many options. I wish now that I had stopped in one of those antique shops and bought like one of the blue and white china plates to add to my collection and just be able to say, I got this one in Argentina. So I regret not doing that, but just a really neat place. feel like if this is one of those places that if we stayed a week or an extended period of time that we would visit on a frequent basis.
Yeah, there's also a large outdoor market they have, I think on Sundays. And matter of fact, when Dennis had asked the people at the hotel, they were like, Oh, well that's not open today, but the market itself is open, during the week and on the weekends. And that's where this El Horneiro was as well as some of the parilla places that I talked about. So.
don't let anybody tell you that it's not there and not available for lunch because it absolutely is. And if the weather's nice, just around the corner from the Mercado is a small Plaza and they have several outdoor cafes where you can dine al fresco. And this is also a place where you might experience your first tango show in the city.
It's really like a street performance. set up a little collection bucket for you to give a tip. And if you are there on a Sunday, that's when the big outdoor market is there. So go check that out. It's got that Plaza definitely reminded me of places in Spain.
So speaking of tango, if you don't want to just try to catch one that's just a street performance, we went to Cafe Tortoni for the tango show. A friend of my sister Stephanie had suggested Cafe Tortoni. She was an exchange student, did study abroad there and the family had taken her there I think several times and she said it's just one of the best tango shows in the city. Now having said that, these are going to be touristy places.
But of them, I think this is the best one. So everything was in Spanish. We didn't understand a lot of the story, but it was beautiful to watch the story unfold. I think you can follow along enough to get the idea, but the costumes were beautiful and the dance was beautiful.
Scott Barronton (09:56)
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Scott Barronton (10:42)
I think Cafe Tortoni was actually the very first place that I ever ate in Buenos Aires. I think Santiago took us there for breakfast after we had landed and we had coffee and some breakfast. So I do remember going to Cafe Tortoni, but I didn't know about the Tango show there because we didn't go to that Tango show.
So I, I'm not a hundred percent sure if you could walk in and like buy tickets to this Tango show, because I think when we, as we were going, the people in front of us, they were trying to figure that out. And then I said to the lady, I have tickets. And she was like, okay. Come, come, come. So I think it is something that you probably need to buy tickets ahead of time. found them on a website called fever.
where they sold those, didn't have any charge any booking fees. It was just the price of the show. And then I had those tickets available, even though the show wasn't full. We got there, we tried to get there pretty soon after the doors opened. We got a table right on one side up in the front. They do have two shows every night. They do have some drinks and light bites that you can order,
they told us they don't serve during the show. They did kind of serve one of the tables during the show, but get there early if you want to have something to eat or drink during the show. But yeah, 100 % would recommend that experience. I was very pleased with it. Matter of fact, have recently recommended it to Santiago, who we interviewed several episodes back about Buenos Aires when we were going to plan all of this.
And he wrote me back and said, I've actually heard about this. need to go next time I go to Buenos Aires. So like I said, it's more of a touristy thing, but I think to have that history and that culture of something that people would have seen more a long time ago. so then after the show, we went for a later dinner, in the Palermo Soho neighborhood at a place called Fuego y Vino and it was outside, so we had
the opportunity to sit outside and enjoy a meal. The weather was gorgeous. It was absolutely perfect. especially from a temperature perspective. great wine, great grilled meats. we ordered a couple of different, grilled platters. and then it was one of the places that had
vegan options. And so for the member of our group that was vegan had something really good for her. It wasn't like what we had heard in other places is, well for the vegan, they can order a salad. They had actual vegan menu items. And it was also a great opportunity to visit this neighborhood because it was very beautiful.
lots of outdoor cafes and things like that. we're going to talk about the tour in a second, but as you move from different areas of a city, just like any city, you notice the distinct differences. So this was our opportunity to just be able to experience this particular neighborhood. Well, let's talk about the tour a little bit. One of the things we want to do for our group was to have a tour guide take us around the city.
There were a few things that I had done previously with Santiago. And so wanted to make sure that we got back around to those. And so we found a tour guide that could give us an itinerary for the day. And it was a jam packed itinerary.
We do recommend that if it's your first time to Buenos Aires and you have multiple days, try to do this on the day following your arrival so that you can take any recommendations for food or additional places while you're there and follow up on those. reason I would say the day following your arrival, if you're arriving from North America, you're going to fly overnight and arrive in the morning and
I just feel like you'd be exhausted and not be really be able to take this in on your arrival day. And also we try to say if at all possible, don't book a tour like this in case you're delayed or something like this, because this would have been a big disappointment if we hadn't been able to do it, but then also a big cost. Tours are one of the things besides hotels that I think tend to be expensive, but well worth it.
So I booked this tour through a company called Tours by Locals that we have used in Cape Town as well. Our tour guide Alejandro had like 500 five-star reviews. And again, because this was something, has a group, it's not something I could have vet ahead of time. I wanted somebody who had great reviews. We were thrilled with his services. Now he typically does small groups.
up to four people and you just book it directly on the website. I had to communicate with them a little bit and say, we have six people and his was one of the ones that said, know, contact us for larger groups. He ended up, we had a driver. They had also rented like a tour van bus type of a thing that held like 15 or 20 people, but it was a very nice vehicle.
very impressed because he had that driver they could just drop us off and then the driver could meet us somewhere and pick us up and he said this is your private hop on hop off so if he was like if you want to go somewhere else we can totally do it so i'll put a link to his particular tour in the show notes but highly highly recommend
There were a couple of things that I wanted to make sure that were included. And of course, again, I had communicated with him ahead of time, which is a great feature of the tours by locals. So, and one of them was to making sure that we had a very in-depth tour of the recoleta. And I wanted the full treatment here because Scott had talked about that and we definitely got that.
So Scott, recap for us about this and then maybe just reflect a little bit on finally us doing this together.
One of the highlights for me was taking the group to the Recoleta Cemetery. And like I have mentioned on multiple episodes previously is that this was something that really stood out to me when Santiago took me there the first time and he had done all the research and was able to take us through and show us the different mausoleums.
Now these mausoleums are, they're just crazy. it was a way that the families demonstrated their wealth, and their love for the ones that have passed on, but they're like family places as well. So, the whole family would be buried in these mausoleums.
And you had all the way from the most famous people from Argentina down to just everyday people who lived there. But it seemed like they always tried to maybe outdo the other one. Yeah, it was just all kinds of mausoleums, but then you had different statues. And the way that they're built are different.
And so I think that is definitely the benefit of having a guide take you so that you can, of course, see the famous ones, understand the history, because then he would stop and, he would have specific stories that he would tell us. Now, I want one thing I wanted to point out that I was just like, yes, when we walked in. So the tickets weren't included in the tour, So I had to go and pay for the group. so while I did that, I could notice he's like,
know, chatting it up with the people that work there. And I always say it's a good sign when the people that work there know the tour guide and interact with them that way. Same experience that we've talked about having in Egypt, because I was like, yes, like they know him. He comes here all the time as well. so, and also he mentioned, okay, here's this big tour group. They're about to come in. We're going to go start somewhere else. Like he knew exactly how to zig and zag.
to get away from the big crowds. Yeah, we got to go into one of the mausoleums. There was a guy there and I don't know, he had a feather duster. So I don't know if he was cleaning or if his job was to like guard it or whatever. Not just anybody could walk in, but he seemed to know the tour groups and when they were going to be there. And so he let us go in for a few minutes. So we got to go in and see the inside.
of this really large mausoleum.
We also went to Plaza de Mayo and that was, that's a Plaza where they have their federal buildings that flank that Plaza. But I think it also has a lot more meanings around like their revolution and their independence and a lot of other stories that are there. You can find the Casa Rosada there.
Casa Rosada is the pink building that is the federal government building. But it's also the building where if you've ever seen the movie or the screenplay of Evita, this is where she did her famous line on the balcony about, don't cry for me Argentina. So that's the Casa Rosada.
And then also in that Plaza de Mayo, we saw the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo that were in the square. It's a human rights organization that began gathering in 1977. There's a group of mothers who would gather together in that plaza to demand information about their children who were disappeared by the Argentine military dictatorship.
between 1976 and 1983. And there's only a few of these women left today. They still gather there in that square and stand for human rights. They're recognized by the white scarves that they wear on their heads. And those were originally embroidered diapers of the children who went missing. And so just by a stroke of luck, they happened to be there.
And when we walked by, they were meeting and talking with people. But then we came back around a few minutes later and they were totally gone. Yeah, they only do this on Thursday afternoons, which is what we happen to be there, but we just like hit the timing just right.
So many stops on this tour, and I feel like if I told you some of the stops, you might think that we were crazy. We saw a water treatment facility. We, of course, went to the cemetery. We went to a bookshop. That was one of those were actually like the two first places that we went. But this bookshop is not an ordinary bookstore. It's called the El Ateno Grand Splendid. And it's one of the most unique bookstores that you are ever going to see. It's set up inside an old theater.
So there's balconies and just exquisite details, painted ceilings. But it's so neat that they've turned it into something that will generate an income so that they can preserve it. But then just people can go and enjoy. There's a coffee shop there. There's a place in the basement for kids books. So was just a really neat stop as well.
And no tour in Argentina would ever be complete without food. Our guide had said he wanted to take us somewhere that is typical Argentina. So he took us to this place called fervor. And when we pulled up, we just all started laughing. He had not told us where we were going,
But we already had dinner reservations there that night so we had we just decided yeah We'll just have lunch there We knew this gonna be a great place because he recommended it and I just went and talked to the girl and I was like He actually brought us here and no big deal. She canceled our dinner reservations
I think that one ended up probably being my favorite meal in Buenos Aires. Argentina is known for its beef, especially the ribeye, but you'll see a lot of different cuts on the menu, including organ meats. We had a vegan in our group and they were able to find good options, which is another reason that we had actually picked this restaurant for dinner as well, because we had like pre-vetted this. Yeah, they had to explain a little bit.
of what they wanted, but the restaurant was very accommodating and the food was delicious. It was so much that we didn't want a big dinner that night. So we ended up staying in at the hotel. we had seen the menu, we saw they had empanadas on the menu at the hotel. And so we were like, you know what? We've got to leave at 4 AM the next morning. So we'll just keep it simple, eat here at the hotel. And it ended up being a really good choice.
So on our tour, also went to the cathedral. Another stroke of luck is that as we were leaving, we noticed that there were some guards marching and I pointed out to Alejandro, I was like, what's going on here? And he got so excited. He looked at his watch and he got so excited. He said, they're doing the changing of the guard. have no idea why they're doing it right now, but do you want to run back inside and watch it? And we were like, well, yeah, why? I mean, of course. Why not? Because, I mean, it seemed very rare that we would get to do that.
So we got to see that as well. Another stop, and Scott, you actually said once we were there that you had been here before. It's the famous horse racing stadium, the Hippodromo Argentino de Palermo. And I think he mentioned that it's actually free to go to that, I think. like it's, for horse racing and betting and stuff like that.
We also passed by both of the soccer stadiums, which was really cool because he was a fan of one of the team and then the driver was a fan of another team. They had a fun rivalry going on and one of the teams, maybe both, but I know one of them for sure was actually, they were going have a game that night. And so you could see they were like prepping the stadium. And then later on, we actually saw the team in the bus.
waving flags out of the window and chanting. So that was a neat, just, that was neat that we got to see like all these little things that I felt like we're just like out of the ordinary. We also drove through Puerto Madero. It's a newer area of the city. They took a old like mills and stuff like that and they've converted them into condos and mixed use. And so they're really revitalizing that area right now.
We also went to the famous La Boca neighborhood. It's a very colorful neighborhood by the water where families would use what they could to build housing, including the paint. whatever paint they could get left over or for really cheap, that's what they use to paint their houses. And so They were very brightly colored.
And this is a very lively area of the city. Alex did have a stop into a restaurant and go all the way to the back up some stairs to get a peek at what the inside of one of those houses would look like. And so this was a really neat part of the tour. I will say that I had read online is you need to do La Boca during the day. It gets a little sketchy at night.
And this was one of those places that, like you said, because we were going to do this during the tour, we opted to do something else. But it's a great place for photography. And a lot of people were selling paintings of the buildings and photos of the buildings. And so this is, again, just why it's so valuable to have a guide in a new city. We really got a huge perspective of all the different neighborhoods and lots of the history.
He also sent me a message on WhatsApp later to give me a few more ideas if we had more time. For example, seeing the capybaras at the eco park. He said a lot of times you have to go out from the city, but they actually have some there. They have a botanical garden. He said the Japanese garden is definitely worth visiting as well.
So I will add some of those other recommendations. A list of places I guess that we went to that were kind of like on the tour and then a list of some of those other recommendations that he sent as well, which includes a lot more restaurants. On a side note, we actually decided at the last minute when we got back to Buenos Aires from our Ushawa flight for the way home to store our bags at the airport and just Uber into the city.
You can't check into your flight more than four hours in advance. And so we just like didn't want to wait in the waiting area. We weren't going to have a ton of time. So half of us went to the eco park to walk around for like an hour and the other half went to the Japanese garden. But I did want to give you another tip. So you can't check in more than four hours, but you do need to give yourself at least three hours in Buenos Aires.
So when that three hours came, we made sure we were back at the airport. We immediately checked our bags in the priority Delta line, went immediately to through security. It took us almost that entire three hours to do that, get through security, get through immigration. I think we ended up with like 15 minutes to grab a bite to eat. So definitely plan accordingly when you're leaving the Buenos Aires international to go out of the country and give yourself that full three hours.
Yeah, we just grabbed a very quick bite at the airport. And by the time we got to the gate, they were already boarding the flight. So, make sure to give yourselves plenty of time. So what we wanted to do is maybe just give you an idea of if you're in Buenos Aires, maybe you only have 24 hours there like, you're coming in before this cruise to Antarctica
or maybe you're coming into Buenos Aires as kind of a hop in place to get to somewhere else in South America. And so here's what we would recommend in that 24 hours. Definitely the Recoleta cemetery, get there early before the crowds, the Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada. You know, we talked about that being the executive office of the president.
the balcony where Eva Perrone addressed the large crowds, the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral right there. That's where we saw that changing of the guards, but the inside of that cathedral is just magnificent. Try to have lunch at that Mercado de San Telmo and enjoy something either from the market or on the plaza outside the market if the weather is nice. Melissa would
definitely recommend the El Hornero empanadas for you. And then you can also enjoy roaming around that San Telmo neighborhood and admiring murals on the sides of the buildings. You could do an early tango show at Cafe Tortoni. And then we would definitely recommend to you dinner at Fervor Yeah, and make reservations at Fervor ahead of time. That was super easy to make on.
So hopefully that's a good little 24 hour plan for you in visiting Buenos Aires.
So Scott, Buenos Aires is known for their steak and for their meat. What was your favorite meal that we had during this trip? It was fervor, but I will tell you that Fuego y Vino that we went to in that Soho neighborhood was really good. Yeah. I don't think you can go wrong. I think there's so many places because they're known for their meat. And if you don't do a good job, don't think you'd have a hard time. Well, what was your most memorable experience?
I definitely enjoyed the Tango show. I don't know that this was originally on our radar just because I thought, we want to have the meals, we've got all this travel. And that was something that Stephanie was like, I think if we can do this, can we, can we find one? And so I'm glad that she suggested that as well. So I think that was uniquely Argentinian, even though it is quote unquote, for tourists, I think the way that they do it and showcase that culture.
Especially because we had seen it in the plaza 100 % worth it. I don't know if it is for tourists because it was 100 % in Spanish. Yeah, that's true. That's They even made a joke about I don't think any of these people speak Spanish and I understood that from the from what they were saying because they said it in Spanish. So I don't know if it is if it is all tourists.
Yeah, but I think that one. And then, you know, if you had more time or whatever,
I think that that cafe where it's at, at Cafe Tortoni is also like you mentioned a very famous place as well. I mean you could, and it seemed like they were having a dinner meal there too. So you could do that as well. There are a few things to know. Pistorini International Airport or EZE is about an hour away from the city and traffic can be heavy.
to and from there. Tips in taxis often require cash. And by the way, that's Argentinian pesos, not US dollars. You can take Uber easily, but it can be hit or miss during rush hour. Like I was able to get an Uber going to dinner that one night after the Tango show, but Melissa and the group that she had
They couldn't get an Uber to pick up their ride. so they ended up having to take a taxi, which is where we found out that they didn't take cards and they only wanted Argentinian pesos, which we did not have. So that was a challenge. ATMs can be hit or miss. So get cash at the airport if you can, might want to look at.
If you're going to go there and you're going to spend some time there and you need some quantities of those pesos, you might want to look at ordering some of those Argentinian pesos from your bank before you go. I know we've always said, you know, just use your ATM, but we tried several ATMs and none of them were available after like three o'clock to pull cash out of. So just something to know.
We did see an ATM at the airport where you go get the Ubers. And knowing what we know now, as far as the tips and the taxis, I wish we would have tried to get cash there and just to see so that we could give you a definitive report on that. But I would just say as soon as you start seeing ATMs, if you don't bring them with you to start trying to get one. It's funny because it's actually changed a little bit. I think of how we travel because this trip
that we're on right now, we ended up ordering some euros because we knew that we needed to be able to have them for paying part of our trip. And so we ordered those ahead of time from our bank.
And then once you get into Buenos Aires, I would say that the Ubers are inexpensive. Melissa talked about that. She did talk about the subway. But since the Ubers were so inexpensive in the city, I would just say maybe it's more convenient to use those. Be sure to have Google Translate or some kind of translation app.
That helps a lot if there's a language barrier and I feel like that our Uber drivers spoke a little bit of English. So if you need to like talk to them a little bit more, just having that handy. And if you can explore with a local guide, and this is not just for Buenos Aires, but anywhere, do it and do it on the first day, first full day of your trip. would say going back to the Google translate is
We had, cause we had split up into two groups. And so I took half the group. Melissa took the other half. cause like three passengers was almost the max that you could take in an Uber. But, uh, we had a driver and at first he wasn't very interactive, but I asked him a question and he communicated to me that he didn't speak English. I pulled out Google translate. I use that.
And then all of a sudden he just wanted to talk into my phone the whole time and let it just continue translating. And he became almost a tour guide in and of himself. Like he took us around. He showed us the, the Plaza de Mayo and he was telling us some of the story of that. And so it was really amazing. And I just say, try your best to communicate with people and it will open up.
just total new opportunities. Yeah, and I think having that tool, and you're not gonna find that with everybody, but people like that, and then having that as a tool to use. We've done that before. We've talked about that in Berlin. In Berlin with that driver that only spoke Turkish, and now we've got a whole note in our phones on places that we should go and see in Turkey. Yeah, so it's just a fantastic way to use technology to just really open up doors.
So overall, Buenos Aires is a city that is easy to enjoy even in a short amount of time. Two days was probably enough for us to see a lot of the highlights, but it's also a place where you could spend more time if you wanted to. Definitely a place where you could go and maybe try to live more like a local. For us, it worked really well as part of a bigger trip, but it's also a destination that can stand on its own if you want to.
And if you plan it right, even a short visit can give you a really good feel for the city.
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